Key takeaways
- Protect people first: watch for electrical hazards, slippery floors, and contaminated water.
- Stop the source if you can do it safely, then call for emergency water extraction.
- Photograph everything before moving items — your claim depends on it.
- In winter, keep the heat on and open cabinet doors while you wait; frozen lines can burst again.
Finding water where it should not be is stressful, especially in a New Hampshire home in January when a supply line can split overnight or spring melt can push through a foundation. The first hour matters because drywall, subfloor, insulation, and framing absorb water quickly, and cold basement air slows natural evaporation. You do not need special equipment to make a real difference. Work through the steps below in order, and call (888) 217-5329 as soon as you can so extraction can be scheduled while you handle the house.
1. Make the area safe before anything else
Start with a quick safety check. If water is near outlets, power strips, the furnace, the water heater, or the electrical panel, stay out of the water and switch off the affected circuit at the breaker panel only if the panel is dry and you can reach it without stepping in water. Never touch a wet breaker box or pull plugs from standing water. If the ceiling below a leak is bulging or sagging, keep clear — saturated drywall is heavy and can drop without warning.
Consider what kind of water you are dealing with. Clean supply-line water from a burst pipe or appliance hose is one situation. Water from a toilet overflow past the trap, a backed-up floor drain, or outdoor flooding that entered the basement is another: treat it as contaminated, keep children and pets away, and do not try to mop or vacuum it with a household machine. Crews providing sewage cleanup use protective gear and disinfection steps that household cleaning cannot match. If you smell fuel oil near a basement tank or see sparking, leave the house and call emergency services first.
2. Stop the source if you can reach it safely
Once people are safe, stop more water from entering. For a burst supply line or leaking fixture, turn the nearest fixture shutoff clockwise. For a failed water heater, washing machine hose, or refrigerator line with no local valve, use the main house shutoff — in most New Hampshire homes it sits where the water line enters the basement or crawl space, often near the meter or pressure tank on well systems. Turn the gate or ball valve until flow stops, then open a faucet at the lowest level to relieve pressure.
If water is coming from outside — foundation seepage during a nor'easter, meltwater over frozen ground, or a sump pit that is overflowing — check whether the sump pump has power and whether its discharge line is frozen or buried in snow. Do not wade into a flooded pit to troubleshoot equipment. If the pump is running but losing ground, move valuables to higher ground and call for flood damage cleanup rather than waiting to see if it catches up. For roof or ice-dam leaks, place buckets and move furniture, but stay off ladders and icy roofs.
Call (888) 217-5329 now — coordinators dispatch extraction crews across New Hampshire, day and night.
3. Protect power, heat, and valuables — the NH winter notes
Winter changes the equation in New Hampshire. Keep the thermostat set and the heat running unless water is actively pouring through mechanical equipment or the basement furnace is submerged. Warm air holds more moisture and helps drying later; shutting the heat off in a January cold snap invites additional frozen pipes. Open vanity and sink cabinet doors on exterior walls so warm air reaches pipes, and if a pipe burst during a freeze, leave the affected faucet open slightly after shutoff so remaining water can drain.
Move what you can carry: rugs, electronics, photo boxes, important papers, and furniture legs off wet floors. Use foil, plastic lids, or wood blocks under furniture feet you cannot move. In an unfinished basement, lift storage to shelving or pallets — cardboard boxes wick water in minutes. For basement water damage in finished lower levels common around Manchester, Nashua, and Concord, pull up a corner of wet area rugs if possible but leave wall-to-wall carpet and baseboards for the crew; tearing them out dry is guesswork, and adjusters prefer to see original conditions.
Avoid common mistakes: do not run the central HVAC if return ducts or the air handler sat in water, do not use a household vacuum on standing water, and do not plug space heaters into wet areas. If you use fans, aim them at open room air rather than directly into wall cavities you cannot see — aggressive airflow on hidden moisture without dehumidification can push damp air into dry framing.
4. Document everything before cleanup begins
Your insurance claim starts with your phone camera. Photograph the source if visible, every affected room from doorway height, close-ups of waterlines on walls and furniture, flooring seams, and any damaged belongings. Shoot short video walking each room slowly. Capture the water heater label, appliance hoses, the sump pit level, and exterior grading or ice buildup where relevant. Keep receipts for any emergency spending such as tarps, batteries, or a plumber's after-hours shutoff visit.
Do not discard damaged materials until your adjuster or coordinator advises — bag small ruined items and set them aside instead. Write down times: when you found the water, when you shut the valve, when you called for help. That timeline supports a sudden-event claim under a standard homeowners policy. Homeowners in Dover, Portsmouth, and Rochester dealing with coastal storms should also photograph exterior conditions, since adjusters often ask whether water came from wind-driven rain, surface runoff, or plumbing. Full water damage restoration includes moisture logs and itemized scopes that pair with your photos.
What happens after your call
When you call (888) 217-5329, a coordinator will ask where the water is, what the likely source is, which rooms are affected, and whether there are safety concerns such as sewage or no power. On arrival, the crew maps moisture with meters and infrared checks, extracts standing water, removes unsalvageable porous materials where needed, and sets commercial air movers and dehumidifiers with daily readings until targets are met. If microbial growth is a concern after a delay, mold remediation steps can be added to the same project.
The single most useful thing you can do in the first hour is combine quick action with restraint: shut off the source, keep people away from hazards, save what is easy to save, document thoroughly, and leave structural decisions to metered professionals. New Hampshire houses — from capes with low crawl spaces to colonials with finished basements — dry best when the plan matches the structure rather than a generic fan count. Get that plan started early and the rest of the project goes faster.
Should I turn off the electricity?
If water covers outlets, cords, or the area around the panel, furnace, or water heater, switch off the affected circuit only if the breaker panel itself is dry and reachable without stepping in water. Otherwise stay out and wait for professionals.
Can I clean up the water myself?
Small clean-water spills on hard floors can be toweled up. Standing water over flooring, wet carpet and pad, water inside walls, or any sewage or floodwater needs professional extraction and drying to prevent hidden moisture and microbial growth.
One call connects you with a New Hampshire crew. Call (888) 217-5329 — open 24/7.
Water damage in New Hampshire? Call now.
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